Kings’ Palace in Mengo and Parliament:

A Historical and Haunting Legacy

Introduction

Located in the heart of Mengo, a district of Kampala, the Kings’ Palace (often referred to as Mengo Palace) stands as a significant yet somber monument to Uganda’s turbulent history. Built in 1922, this small but historically rich palace was once the residence of the Kabaka (King) of Buganda. However, it has been largely unoccupied since 1966 when a dramatic political upheaval altered its fate.

Historical Context

The Kings’ Palace in Mengo was constructed to serve as the official residence of the Kabaka, symbolizing the prestige and authority of the Buganda monarchy. This grand building, designed with colonial elegance, was home to the Buganda royal family until the political turmoil of the 1960s.

In 1966, during a period of intense political conflict, Prime Minister Milton Obote ordered an aggressive assault on the palace to oust Kabaka Mutesa II, who was also the President of Uganda at the time. The attack, led by the forces of Idi Amin, marked a pivotal moment in Uganda’s history. After several days of intense fighting, Kabaka Mutesa II was forced into exile, and the palace’s role as a royal residence came to an abrupt end.

Post-Coup Transformation

Following the coup, the palace underwent a dramatic transformation. The building was repurposed as army barracks, reflecting the shift in power and the upheaval in the political landscape. Adjacent to the palace, a new site was constructed by Idi Amin in the 1970s, which became a notorious prison and torture-execution chamber. This dark chapter in Uganda’s history added a layer of grim significance to the palace complex.

The Underground Prison

One of the most haunting aspects of the former palace is the underground prison. Tours are available, guiding visitors through a grim concrete tunnel system that once housed numerous dark, damp cells. These cells were separated by an electrified passage of water designed to prevent escape. The stark and eerie environment of the prison serves as a chilling reminder of the atrocities committed during Idi Amin’s regime.

Among the remnants of the prison are poignant messages written by former prisoners on the walls, including one that reads, “Obote, you have killed me, but what about my children?” These messages bear witness to the suffering endured within these walls and the lasting impact of the regime’s brutality.

Cultural and Historical Significance

The Kings’ Palace in Mengo, despite its tragic history, remains a crucial part of Uganda’s cultural and historical heritage. The palace’s ceremonial drive, which leads from the Bulange Royal Building to the palace grounds, underscores its former grandeur and significance.

Visitors to the palace can also see the scrap-metal remains of Kabaka Mutesa II’s Rolls Royce, destroyed by Idi Amin as a symbol of his defiance against the royal family. This relic adds a tangible link to the past, highlighting the personal and political conflicts that shaped Uganda’s history.

Visiting the Site

While the interior of the palace is not open to visitors, the site offers a profound historical experience through the underground prison tour. This tour provides insights into the darker aspects of Uganda’s past and the enduring legacy of political strife.

Conclusion

The Kings’ Palace in Mengo and its adjacent sites encapsulate a pivotal era in Uganda’s history. From its origins as a royal residence to its transformation into a symbol of political conflict and repression, the palace complex offers a unique and sobering glimpse into the country’s past. For those interested in understanding Uganda’s historical and cultural evolution, a visit to Mengo Palace is both educational and evocative.